Today, the term “melasma” is used more often than the historical term “chloasma.”
It is an acquired pigmentation disorder that typically presents as symmetrical, patchy brown areas on the face — most commonly on the cheeks, forehead, bridge of the nose, chin, and above the upper lip.
What makes melasma distinctive is that it does not simply develop “on the surface.”
MELASMA DOES NOT BEGIN WITH THE SPOT
What we see is:
brown spot ↓ uneven skin tone ↓ a mask-like appearance on the face.
But behind this are processes occurring within the skin:
melanocyte ↓ activation of melanogenesis ↓ melanin production ↓ transfer of melanosomes to keratinocytes ↓ pigment accumulation ↓ visible hyperpigmentation.
In melasma, melanin may be located predominantly in the epidermis, while in some patients it may also be present in deeper layers of the skin.
Therefore, melasma is not contamination that can simply be cleansed away from the surface.
WHY DOES MELASMA DEVELOP?
Melasma is multifactorial.
A number of factors may contribute to its development and persistence:
ultraviolet radiation
→ visible light → hormonal factors → genetic predisposition → individual melanocyte activity → inflammatory and local skin signals.
Pregnancy and hormonal medications may act as triggers in predisposed individuals.
Therefore, the historical term “mask of pregnancy” is understandable, but melasma is not exclusively a pregnancy-related condition.
WHY MELASMA SHOULD NOT BE VIEWED AS “SURFACE PIGMENT”
This is one of its most important characteristics.
If a professional sees only the color and attempts to work exclusively on the surface, they are addressing only the final visible manifestation.
But melanocyte activity may continue.
The result may be:
visible pigment
→ treatment → skin irritation → inflammatory signal → renewed stimulation of pigmentation.
That is why an especially important principle in melasma is: DO NOT IRRITATE THE SKIN IN ORDER TO REMOVE PIGMENT.
The American Academy of Dermatology specifically notes that skin irritation can make dark areas even darker.
AFFINITY: NOT ERASING — BUT CONTROLLING THE IMPACT
This is where the Affinity principle fits particularly well into a rational strategy.
controlled vacuum ↓ gentle contact ↓ delivery of a professional solution ↓ natural pore / follicular openings ↓ controlled work with the skin.
There is no need to build the procedure around: strong friction
→ abrasive action → aggressive removal of the superficial layer.
This does not mean that Affinity removes melanin.
And it certainly does not mean that pigment can be “pulled out through the pores.”
A pore is an anatomical pathway.
Melanin is an intracellular pigment.
These are different structures.
THE MAIN ADVANTAGE — NOT CREATING UNNECESSARY IRRITATION
With melasma, a professional has to address two tasks simultaneously:
reduce the appearance of existing pigmentation + avoid triggering new pigmentation.
Therefore, a professional strategy may look like this: prepare the skin
→ apply controlled treatment → minimize irritation → support the skin barrier → control UV and visible-light exposure → work consistently over time.
This is considerably more rational than the principle: “the stronger the lightening, the better.”
AFFINITY AND THE PROFESSIONAL SOLUTION
Here, it is particularly important to distinguish between two things:
AFFINITY = A METHOD OF CONTROLLED DELIVERY
and
ACTIVE INGREDIENT = BIOLOGICAL ACTION.
If the selected professional solution contains active ingredients intended to address pigmentation, their effect is determined by the substance itself, its concentration, form, and contact time.
Affinity does not turn every solution into a treatment for melasma.
Its role is to organize controlled contact between the solution and the skin without making additional mechanical trauma the basis of the procedure.
A DISTINCTIVE FEATURE OF MELASMA — LIGHT
It is important not to overlook what happens after the procedure.
Ultraviolet radiation stimulates melanogenesis.
But in melasma, visible light is also relevant, particularly in people with darker skin phototypes. Therefore, modern recommendations emphasize not only SPF, but also protection against visible light; in particular, tinted products containing iron oxides may be considered.
The sequence therefore becomes:
PROCEDURE
→ HOME CARE → PHOTOPROTECTION → TRIGGER CONTROL.
Without this, it is difficult to speak rationally about long-term management of melasma.
ESPECIALLY IMPORTANT DURING PREGNANCY
Melasma does indeed often appear during pregnancy and may partially improve after childbirth.
But this does not mean that pregnancy is an appropriate time for active cosmetic lightening procedures.
During pregnancy, the safety of selected professional ingredients and procedures requires separate consideration.
Therefore, the principle is especially relevant here:
DO NOT RUSH → DO NOT IRRITATE → DO NOT EXPERIMENT WITH ACTIVE INGREDIENTS → FOCUS ON GENTLE SKINCARE AND PHOTOPROTECTION.
NOT EVERY PIGMENT SPOT IS MELASMA
Before beginning treatment, it is important to understand what the professional is actually dealing with.
A similar appearance may be caused by: post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation
→ solar lentigines → freckles → drug-induced pigmentation → other pigmentation disorders.
Therefore, a diagnosis should not be established based on the color of the spot alone.
When in doubt — dermatological assessment before cosmetic treatment.
THE AFFINITY APPROACH TO MELASMA
Here, our philosophy is particularly simple:
DO NOT ERASE
→ DO NOT TRAUMATIZE → DO NOT IRRITATE → CONTROL → SUPPORT THE BARRIER.
There is no need to necessarily aim for pronounced peeling.
There is no need to create an inflammatory response in order to achieve a professional result.
There is no need to work at maximum intensity.
For skin prone to melasma, controlled gentleness can sometimes become an important part of the strategy.
AFFINITY CAN BE PART OF A COMPREHENSIVE PROGRAM
Depending on the condition of the skin and the selected medical / professional skincare strategy, Affinity may be considered:
→ for gentle skin preparation; → for cleansing without excessive friction; → for controlled delivery of a compatible professional solution; → as a step between other professional procedures; → as part of supportive skincare for pigmentation-prone skin; → in programs where minimizing additional irritation is particularly important.
However, Affinity is not a standalone treatment for melasma.
Therefore, a rational strategy does not look like:
SEE THE SPOT → REMOVE THE PIGMENT.
It looks like: IDENTIFY THE NATURE OF THE PIGMENTATION
→ ASSESS THE TRIGGERS → MINIMIZE IRRITATION → SELECT AN APPROPRIATE STRATEGY → WORK WITH THE SKIN IN A CONTROLLED WAY → SUPPORT THE BARRIER → CONTROL UV AND VISIBLE-LIGHT EXPOSURE.
Affinity is not an “eraser for melasma.”
It is a controlled way of working with the skin that allows professional solution delivery to be incorporated into a comprehensive program without making additional surface damage a prerequisite for the procedure.